Restoring the Alfa Romeo Spider 105/115: The Complete Guide to Common Issues, Inspection, and Professional Restoration

The Alfa Romeo Spider of the 105/115 series was built from 1966 to 1993 and is now one of the most sought-after open-top classics of Italian origin. The basic design remained consistent throughout its production run, from the Duetto with its rounded rear end through the Kammback models and the third series to the Series 4. This continuity makes restoration predictable: The weak points are known, well-documented, and fully manageable with the right parts.

This guide covers the restoration of a Spider 105/115 with a carburetor engine, addressing each individual assembly. For each component, it describes how to identify damage, how it occurs, and how to repair it properly, supplemented by specific testing procedures and practical tips. The focus is on European models with Solex, Weber, or Dellorto twin carburetors. The mechanical fuel injection systems found on US models are not covered, as they are not relevant to the European market.

The body and technical parts described in this article are manufactured by Alfa-Service Hurtienne to original quality standards and shipped worldwide. References to the corresponding sections of the parts catalog are provided at the relevant points.

Before Restoration: Assessing the Condition Accurately

The success or failure of a Spider restoration depends less on the mechanical components than on the bodywork. The engine, transmission, chassis, brakes, electrical system, and interior can be almost completely restored because the parts are available. The bodywork, on the other hand, determines the actual scope of work, as extensive rust in load-bearing areas requires sheet metal work, the full extent of which only becomes apparent after opening the affected sections.

It is essential to recognize that the visible damage on a Spider usually represents only a fraction of the actual extent of the problem. Corrosion tends to start in hidden areas—at seams, in cavities, and where multiple panels overlap and moisture cannot dry out. Anyone who opens a critical area will regularly find more material loss underneath than was visible from the outside. An honest assessment factors in this hidden portion from the very beginning.

Practical Application: Two simple tests provide reliable indications before purchase or before work begins. First, the water test: If water is poured into the gap between the roof and the chrome trim, it should only re-emerge from underneath the vehicle. If it appears in the interior or on the sill, the roof drainage is defective and hidden rust is likely. Second, the curb test: If the vehicle is placed with just one wheel on a curb and the doors can still be opened and closed without issue, the load-bearing structure of the sills is sound. If the doors stick or the closing mechanism changes, torsional rigidity has been compromised, which is particularly serious in a convertible without a fixed roof.

In practice: Simple tools are sufficient for an initial assessment. A powerful flashlight, a small magnet to detect large areas of body filler, a screwdriver to carefully probe soft spots in the sheet metal, and a light plastic hammer for the tap test are sufficient to check for the main weak points. A lift or a pit makes it much easier to inspect the underbody, sills, and side members.

Body and Rust

The body is the most extensive and important aspect of any Spider restoration. Rust tends to form where water and dirt collect and cannot drain away, i.e., at seams, overlapping panels, and areas with impaired drainage. The repair panels and body parts described below are part of Alfa-Service’s core product range and can be found in the Body and Panels section.

Front panel and front grille

The panel beneath the radiator grille is directly exposed to stone chips, splashing water, and road salt and is consequently frequently damaged. The transitions to the fender and the central area toward the radiator are critical. Additionally, the cross member between the radiator and the front panel must be inspected, as it acts as a load-bearing element to reinforce the front end, and rusting through it impairs the fit of the hood, grille, and fenders.

In practice: Corrosion at this point usually starts on the inside and works its way outward. An assessment from the front alone is therefore insufficient. A view from below and from the rear at the back of the panel is more revealing. If the panel is already blistering on the outside, significantly more of the interior is usually already lost, so that a replacement panel is the cleaner solution compared to patching.

Front wheel wells and A-pillars

The front section of the front wheel wells is usually not a concern as long as the rubber flaps on the mud flaps are fully intact and fit snugly everywhere. If they are missing or have hardened, dirty water can reach the areas behind them and the headlight housings unimpeded. The truly critical area is the rear section of the front wheel wells. Here, several panels lie on top of one another—some made of aluminum—and this is where the A-pillar runs. Water and dirt accumulate in this overlapping structure and work their way in unnoticed over the years, which is why this area is one of the most underestimated spots on the Spider.

Practical advice: The panels in question are usually bolted and can be removed for inspection. This effort is worthwhile for any thorough assessment, as the findings here determine the true severity of the body’s condition. A frequently overlooked cause lies in the lower chrome trim of the windshield: Water runs through the screw hole in this trim, down the A-pillar, and into the sill. The amount per trip is small, but the cumulative effect over the years is significant. During restoration, this opening must be permanently sealed to interrupt the water path and prevent a newly repaired sill from rusting through from the inside again.

Engine compartment, bulkhead, and wiper channel

In the engine compartment, the transition from the engine bay to the fender should be inspected first. A tap test reveals soft spots. Another weak point is the transition from the bulkhead to the windshield wiper reservoir. There is a flange there where the hood gasket rests, and moisture tends to accumulate along this edge. It should be specifically inspected from below, from inside the engine compartment. The wiper tray itself is prone to corrosion, as leaves and water accumulate in it when the drains are clogged.

Practical advice: The wiper channel’s drainage channels should be kept clear during every maintenance check. If they become clogged, water accumulates and corrodes both the channel and the underlying parts. Regular cleaning is the most effective and cost-efficient way to prevent rust in this area.

Side Sills

The sills are load-bearing components and are critical to safety. From the outside, they often still look serviceable, which can lead to a false impression. A closer look at the sill from below, above the folded edge, is more revealing, as this is where material loss first becomes apparent. Additionally, the trim behind the B-pillar should be removed and the interior of the sill illuminated with a flashlight, as the condition there reveals the truest picture. Cracks in the paint near the transition to the trunk lid are a clear warning sign of already weakened sills.

Practical advice: Since the sills play a major role in the torsional rigidity of the open body, care must be taken when replacing a sill to ensure that the body does not lose its shape during the work. It has proven effective to properly align the vehicle before cutting out the old sill and, if necessary, secure it with struts to ensure that door openings and gap dimensions are maintained. If work is performed without this support, the body may warp, and the doors will no longer fit properly.

Floor Panels

There are three areas on the floor panels that require special attention. First, the edges of the rubber plugs, under which moisture accumulates. Second, the immediate vicinity of the jack mounting point, which is exposed to splash water and whose failure during jacking can be dangerous. Third, the transition to the inner sills, which forms the connection to the load-bearing structure. A quick look behind the seats and under the carpet is easy to do and reliably shows whether the floor panels are still structurally sound.

Practical Note: In vehicles that have been parked for a long time, moisture accumulates under the carpet, often from leaky doors, the convertible top, or the roof drainage system. The carpet holds the moisture against the metal like a sponge, causing the floor panels to rust through from above, even though the underbody protection appears intact from below. Therefore, the carpet must be lifted before making an assessment. During restoration, it is recommended to properly treat the floor panels from above before installing new insulation and carpet.

Doors

On the doors, inspect the area around the side mirrors and handles, as well as the entire lower door area. Water that enters the door through the window shaft seals must drain out through the drainage openings at the bottom edge of the door. If these openings are clogged, water accumulates in the door and causes it to rust from the inside. If blisters appear in the paint on the lower part of the door, the damage is more advanced than it appears.

Practical tip: The drainage openings at the bottom edge of the door should be clear and remain so. A door bottom edge that has rusted through can hardly be permanently repaired in specific spots, as the rust continues to spread from the inside. The proper solution is a new door panel with a new door bottom. Simply patching a door that has rusted through from the inside merely delays the problem and is not effective for a high-quality restoration.

Rear wheel wells and rear axle housing

The same principles apply to the rear wheel wells as to the front ones, but in reverse: The front section of the rear wheel wells presents the same issues as the rear section of the front wheel wells. The mounting points for the rear axle deserve special attention. There, a thicker reinforcement plate is integrated into the thin wheel well panel. The transition between the two plates becomes deteriorated as soon as the roof drainage no longer functions and water enters this area. Since forces from the rear axle are transmitted here, the load-bearing capacity of this section is critical to safety.

Rear panel and trunk

The rear panel is another area with several overlapping sheets. The section concealed by the bumper is particularly critical, as it remains invisible upon superficial inspection. In the trunk, the fuel tank (in the area of its seam) and the spare tire well must be inspected carefully, as water and dirt accumulate there. The joint between the upper and lower rear panels, as well as the shock absorber mounts and the surrounding area, should also be checked.

Practical tip: The spare tire well is a classic water trap. If the vehicle is parked with a damp spare tire or if water penetrates through leaky taillight seals, the well will rust from the inside. Before applying rust inhibitor, ensure that the taillights and their seals are watertight; otherwise, even a newly repaired well will rust through again.

Roof drainage

Roof drainage is the most important and, at the same time, the most frequently misunderstood cause of sill rust on the Spider. The main drainage system is located behind the B-pillars, and its hoses run downward through the sills. If a hose slips or comes loose, the drainage system no longer directs the water outward but directly into the sill. The result is rust in a spot where the cause is not visible from the outside and is therefore often only discovered during disassembly.

Practical tip: The lower hose outlet should protrude about two to three centimeters from the sill so that water drains reliably and does not flow back into the sill. During a restoration, these hoses should be inspected, replaced if necessary, and secured so that they remain permanently in place. This seemingly minor step prevents one of the most persistent causes of rust on the Spider and should be completed before the sills are permanently sealed.

Longitudinal members

The longitudinal members are among the load-bearing elements of the body and are particularly critical in terms of the general inspection. They can rust through over nearly their entire length, and such a finding clearly falls into the category of defects that endanger traffic safety. It is worth noting that this damage can reach dramatic proportions in a relatively short time even on vehicles used exclusively in the summer with low annual mileage, as the rust works undisturbed in the hidden interior of the rails.

Practical advice: Since the longitudinal members appear in better condition from the outside than their interior actually is, tapping along their entire length is essential. A dull sound and yielding sheet metal indicate advanced corrosion. Repairing the longitudinal members is among the most demanding bodywork tasks on the Spider and requires precise alignment of the body, as the load-bearing geometry is affected here.

Panel Repair and Corrosion Protection

Repair panels and complete body parts are available for nearly all critical areas. The decisive selection criterion is the fit, as it varies significantly depending on the manufacturer. A precisely fitting panel significantly reduces the effort required for adjustment during welding and is essential for clean, uniform gap dimensions. Alfa-Service manufactures the body parts for the Spider in-house to original quality; the complete range can be found in the Bodywork and Panels section.

When installing the repair panels, the damaged sections are cut out and the new panels are welded in. Load-bearing areas are always welded. Any remaining unevenness and transitions on visible surfaces are then professionally filled with tin. Tinning is the superior method compared to simple puttying, as the tin layer bonds permanently and moisture-tightly to the sheet metal. In older restorations, such transitions were often filled exclusively with putty, which led to cracks and renewed corrosion over time.

Practice: The sequence of work steps determines the quality of the result. It has proven effective to first complete all sheet metal work and precisely adjust the gap dimensions before the body is sandblasted. Sandblasting gently removes rust and old coatings, exposing bare metal. Immediately afterward, the bare body-in-white must be protected from rusting again, which is why priming should follow promptly. Cathodic dip coating offers particularly effective corrosion protection, as it penetrates into cavities and hard-to-reach areas that cannot be accessed with a brush or spray gun.

Practical note: When using a rust converter, it is effective only on a bare metal surface. If applied over loose rust, corrosion continues beneath the coating, and the visual improvement masks the ongoing damage. The cavities of the fully assembled body, particularly the sills, side members, and doors, must finally be sealed with cavity preservative to ensure that the repaired areas are permanently protected.

Engine

Throughout its production run, the Spider 105/115 was powered by the Alfa Nord engine, a four-cylinder unit with an aluminum block, removable gray-cast iron liners, two overhead camshafts, and eight valves. The camshafts are driven by a double timing chain. This engine is considered robust and durable, but is sensitive to neglected oil maintenance. Parts for the engine are available in the Engine section.

Oil Consumption and Oil Selection

The oil consumption of the Nordmotor depends heavily on driving style and maintenance. For these engines, high-viscosity oils with a high zinc and phosphorus content are recommended, such as those in the 10W60 or 20W50 viscosity grades. These oils ensure sufficient oil pressure and a stable lubricating film, which limits oil consumption and reduces wear on camshafts, bearings, and cylinder walls. The high zinc and phosphorus content is particularly important for the plain-bearing camshafts in this design.

Practical advice: Regular oil changes with fresh oil are more important for this engine than for modern engines, especially in a vehicle that is primarily driven on short trips and in city traffic. On short trips, the oil rarely reaches full operating temperature, so condensation and fuel particles remain in the oil. Changing the oil more frequently based on time rather than mileage takes this into account and noticeably extends the engine’s service life.

Overhaul

During an engine overhaul, the pistons and cylinder liners are replaced as a matched set, since pistons are practically never offered without matching liners. The removable gray cast iron cylinder liners are a design advantage of this engine, as cylinder wear can be repaired without boring out the block. The cylinder head, valves, valve seats, and valve guides are inspected during the overhaul and repaired as needed, as is the timing chain with its tensioning and guide elements.

Practical Note: During reassembly, it is recommended to balance the pistons and connecting rods to ensure that the rotating and oscillating masses are balanced. In practice, it sometimes happens that individual pistons in a delivered set have been machined down more and are therefore lighter than the others. If this goes unnoticed, the smoothness of the fully assembled engine’s operation will suffer. Balancing takes little time and prevents persistently unsatisfactory running performance, which could only be remedied later by disassembling the engine again.

Engine Removal

Experience shows that removal is easier if the engine and transmission are removed as a single unit. This requires two jacks and an engine hoist. If the engine is to be pulled out without the transmission, it tends not to separate from the transmission input shaft and can become jammed on attached components.

Practical tip: If the engine gets stuck when separating from the transmission, removing the center tie rod creates additional clearance toward the front. Additionally, check whether the engine is hitting the lower axle carrier. The engine hoist must be adjusted so that no lateral forces act on the transmission input shaft during disconnection, as this shaft is sensitive and can be damaged by lateral stress. Before pulling, also verify that all connections between the engine and transmission, as well as all attached components, are actually loosened, since a forgotten component is the usual cause of apparent binding.

Cooling System

The cooling system is part of the major overhaul. The radiator, water pump, thermostat, and hoses age and should be replaced on a vehicle that has been idle for a long time or has been driven hard to reliably prevent overheating. Aluminum engines, in particular, do not tolerate high temperatures well, which is why a properly functioning cooling system is crucial for their service life. The components can be found in the cooling system section.

Fuel System and Carburetors

The Spider 105/115 was delivered with twin carburetors from the manufacturers Solex, Weber, and Dellorto. The carburetor setup defines the engine’s character and is also one of the most common causes of rough idling, poor throttle response, and loss of power. Parts for the fuel system are available in the Fuel System section.

Design-related differences

On older Solex carburetors, the throttle shaft ran unsupported through the housing, which led to play and air leaks over time. The newer Solex models, like the Weber and Dellorto, have bearings in the housing. The accelerator pump is designed as a diaphragm pump in Dellorto and Solex models, whereas in Weber models it is a piston pump. This distinction is essential for troubleshooting, as certain defects can only occur in the respective design.

Typical weak points

A permanently wet upper cover gasket usually has one of three causes. Either the cover is warped, the fuel pressure is too high, or the float needle valve no longer closes reliably. If the cause is the valve, either the retaining clip is bent or the valve itself is worn. If fuel leaks from the bottom of a Dellorto or Solex, the pump diaphragm is usually defective. With the Weber, this fault cannot occur in this form, as it uses a piston pump.

Practical tip: The fuel pressure should be about 0.3 bar; more is not necessary. Excessive pressure overloads the float needle valve, causing the carburetor to receive more fuel than the valve can hold back, and the cover gasket becomes wet. When troubleshooting a wet cover gasket, it is therefore worth checking the fuel pressure first before suspecting the cover or float needle valve.

Practical tip: Another common issue is worn throttle valve bearings. To check, move the throttle valve on the removed carburetor in the axial direction without spring tension. A small amount of play is acceptable; significant play leads to air leaks and rough idling and requires a carburetor overhaul.

Intake rubbers

The intake rubbers are located between the carburetors and the intake manifold. They absorb engine vibrations and compensate for dimensional tolerances. As they age, they become leaky and draw in air, which manifests as rough idling and poor throttle response.

Practical test: To check them, carefully push the carburetors up and down while the engine is running. If the RPM changes, the system is drawing in air, and a new set of intake rubbers is needed. It is recommended to replace the silent bushing on the carburetor mount at the same time. It is important to note the distinction: A slightly porous surface on the outside of the rubbers does not necessarily mean they are leaking. The only decisive factor is their behavior during the pressure test described above.

Practical Application: When assembling the intake system, a specific sequence must be followed to ensure that all channels are aligned and no air leaks occur. First, the carburetors are mounted to the intake manifold, ensuring that the holes are aligned and the throttle shafts are in the same plane. Next, the intake rubbers are secured, also without misalignment. Only then is the intake manifold installed, and only once the entire assembly is correctly aligned is it mounted to the engine. Sealant should not be used, as it is washed out by the fuel and consequently causes air leaks again. It is crucial that all contact surfaces are flat, as uneven surfaces cannot be permanently sealed.

Adjustment

Before adjusting the carburetors, valve clearance, timing, ignition timing, spark plugs, and the entire ignition system must be in good working order, and no jets may be clogged. Carburetor adjustment on an engine with faulty ignition or incorrect valve clearance will not yield a usable result. Synchronization of the two carburetors and adjustment of the idle mixture are performed on an engine at operating temperature.

Practical procedure: To synchronize the cylinders, compare the cylinder pairs by disconnecting the spark plug wires in pairs and adjust them using the synchronization screw until both pairs contribute equally to engine power. Then adjust the mixture control screws individually. It is essential to proceed patiently in small steps of half or quarter turns, waiting a few seconds between adjustments so the engine can respond to each change. If you note the initial position of all screws, you can reverse any step.

Practical tip: If a cylinder does not respond as expected when adjusting the idle mixture, first lower the idle speed just enough so that the engine is on the verge of stalling, allowing small differences to become noticeable. If there is no response, the corresponding idle channel may be partially clogged. In this case, it often helps to completely remove the mixture control screw and clean the opening with compressed air. A mixture that is too lean increases the combustion temperature, which the aluminum engine does not tolerate well; a mixture that is too rich washes the lubricating film off the cylinder walls. Both extremes should be avoided. Due to significant variations between production runs, fuel injection charts found online are, at best, only useful as a rough starting point. For truly optimal tuning, there is no substitute for a dynamometer.

Drivetrain, Transmission, and Clutch

The drivetrain consists of the manual transmission, the propeller shaft, and the rear axle with differential. Wear is indicated by jerky gear changes, noises from the drivetrain, and play in the joints. Parts for the drivetrain and transmission can be found in the Drivetrain and Transmission section.

In the transmission, worn synchronizer rings are a common cause of stiff or grinding shifts, especially in the lower gears and when shifting into second gear when the engine is cold. The driveshaft and its mountings should be checked for play and the condition of the center bearing, as a worn center bearing leads to vibrations and noises under load.

Practical advice: It makes sense to replace the clutch at the same time during a restoration, since the engine and transmission are separated anyway. Removing the vehicle again just for the clutch would be uneconomical later on, which is why replacing it during the engine overhaul is the economically sound decision, even if the old clutch does not yet appear to be completely worn out.

Overhauling the rear axle is one of the most demanding tasks on these vehicles. It requires the appropriate special tools, experience, and precise adjustment of flank clearance and bearings to ensure the axle operates without play and noise-free. If an axle has been operated for a long time with incorrect flank clearance or defective bearings, the wear has already transferred to the tooth flanks, and completely silent operation can no longer be achieved. In such cases, replacing the affected components is the most effective solution. Due to the required special tools and the necessary precision, rear axle overhaul is generally a job for an experienced specialist shop.

Chassis and Steering

The suspension relies on intact bearings and bushings. As the vehicle ages, noises and spongy handling may occur, the causes of which are often misidentified. Parts for the suspension are available in the suspension section.

Front Axle

A creaking or rumbling noise during compression and rebound on the front axle is often attributed to the shock absorbers. In most cases, however, worn control arm bushings—also known as silent bushings—are the actual cause.

Practical advice: Before replacing the shock absorbers, it is therefore worth specifically inspecting the control arm bushings, as their wear causes the described creaking far more frequently than defective shock absorbers. Replacing them eliminates the noises and restores precise wheel alignment. While performing this work, the shock absorbers, springs, wheel bearings, and the remaining suspension components should also be inspected for wear, as replacing them all at once is convenient while the axle is disassembled.

Rear Axle

On the rear axle, the push rods and reaction triangle operate via silent bushings and conical rubber mounts, which wear out over time. Worn bushings lead to imprecise handling and noise under load and during load changes.

Practical tip: Reinforced versions are available for several of these bearings, offering a longer service life and tighter wheel guidance, and they prove particularly effective in sporty vehicles. When replacing them, ensure the correct assignment of the individual bushings to their respective mounting points, as the push rods and reaction triangle use different bushings.

Steering

The steering system must be checked for play in the steering gear as well as for the condition of the tie rods and tie rod ends. Worn tie rod ends result in imprecise steering and are a safety concern. After work on the steering and front axle, a wheel alignment with toe adjustment is required; otherwise, there is a risk of premature and uneven tire wear.

Brake system

The brake system is one of the first components to be checked on any vehicle that has been parked for an extended period, as it is critical to safety and suffers particularly when the vehicle is stationary. Brake cylinders, calipers, and brake lines corrode from the inside and outside. Storage damage leads to pistons becoming stuck in calipers and wheel cylinders, as well as internal deposits in the lines.

In practice: With a vehicle that has been parked for a long time, it is safe to assume that the brake pistons are seized and the lines have aged, even if the brakes initially appear to be functioning. During restoration, the hydraulic components are overhauled or replaced, the lines are replaced, and the brake fluid is completely changed, as it absorbs water and loses its properties over time. The appropriate parts can be found in the Brake System section.

Exhaust System

The exhaust system is exposed to moisture, condensation, and road salt and rusts from the inside in vehicles that are rarely driven. Rusted-through manifolds, pipes, and mufflers impair performance, sound, and exhaust behavior. Internal corrosion progresses rapidly, especially in a vehicle driven only in good weather that is parked after every drive with a warm system containing condensation. During restoration, the system is inspected for leaks and corrosion and, if necessary, replaced in sections or entirely. Components for the exhaust system are available in the Exhaust System section.

Electrical System

The electrical system of older Alfa Romeos is a chapter unto itself in any restoration. The distributor, ignition, alternator, starter, switches, and wiring harness age, and loose connections and corroded ground connections are particularly common in vehicles that have been parked for long periods. Many supposed component defects can actually be traced back to poor ground connections or oxidized connectors. Parts for the electrical system can be found in the Electrical section.

Practical advice: It makes sense to take a systematic approach by checking the ground connections and the power supply before replacing components on a hunch. Replacing expensive components does not fix a fault caused by a corroded ground. Corroded ground points must be cleaned down to bare metal and permanently protected against further corrosion.

Depending on the model year and equipment, distributors from Marelli or Bosch were used, which must be taken into account when sourcing replacement parts. Lighting, turn signals, the ignition switch, switches, and indicator lights must be checked for proper function. A partially or completely replaced wiring harness eliminates a whole range of hard-to-find sources of faults in one fell swoop and significantly increases operational safety, which is why this investment is often worthwhile during a comprehensive restoration.

Interior and Soft Top

Interior trim and the soft top are relatively easy to find for the Spider and can largely be replaced by the owner with some mechanical skill. Carpets, seat covers, the dashboard, door panels, and small parts deteriorate due to sun exposure and moisture. Since the Spider is an open-top vehicle, the interior is more exposed to the elements than in a closed vehicle, which must be taken into account regarding the condition of the materials. Interior parts are available in the Interior section.

The soft top is a key component in terms of both sealing and appearance. The soft top fabric, rear window, and the surrounding seals become brittle and leak over time. A leaky soft top is not only a comfort issue but a direct cause of water ingress, which contributes to the corrosion damage to floor panels and inner sills described above.

Practical advice: When installing a new soft top, ensure correct and even tension as well as proper alignment of the linkage so that the roof sits wrinkle-free and seals completely. A soft top that is installed too loosely or crookedly will not close properly and will let water through. The work requires care and a bit of patience, as the fabric needs time to settle, and adjustments are best made before final securing.

Parts Procurement and Conclusion

Restoring an Alfa Romeo Spider 105/115 is challenging, but thanks to the good availability of parts, it is manageable. The bodywork generally requires the most effort, which is why an honest assessment of the sheet metal’s condition should be the starting point for every decision. Those who identify the critical areas, inspect them thoroughly, permanently address the root causes—such as faulty roof drainage—and work with precisely fitting parts will ultimately end up with a vehicle that is technically and visually durable.

When it comes to the mechanics: standstill damage to the brakes, fuel system, and electricals is specifically addressed; the engine benefits from high-quality oil and a thorough overhaul; and the carburetors reward patient, professional tuning with reliable performance. Much of this work can be performed by hand with some mechanical skill, but demanding tasks such as rear axle overhaul belong in experienced hands.

As a manufacturer, Alfa-Service Hurtienne produces a large portion of the body and technical parts required for restoration in original quality and ships worldwide. The complete range for the Spider, organized by assemblies, can be found in the Spider 105/115 section.